Plot to Plate Aug/Sept
by Jean Pearson27 Jul 2009
Peat or Peat-free?
This is the question that I have been asking any-one who seemed even vaguely interested in the fact that, because of ever growing demand for ready-made compost and grow bags, peat is being stripped mercilessly by machines from the land leaving it barren and unable to recover. It takes hundreds of years to restore the land back to anything like manageable. Species of plants and insects may be wiped out if their habitat is destroyed and irrigation and flooding will be a problem.
I have been experimenting with grow bags this year. In the greenhouse I planted three sweet corn plants in a peat grow bag and three in a peat-free grow bag. I have watered and fed both bags equally but the difference is amazing. The peat grown corn is tall and strong with dark green leaves and swelling corns, whereas the peat-free plants are about two thirds the size with pale yellowy-green leaves and pathetic little cobs. I have done the same thing with tomatoes with the same result. However, tomato plants that I have grown in peat-free bags, with the bag cut in half and stood upright with one plant in each half, seem to be doing alright but I will have to see how they ripen.
All plants need to be grown in good nutritious material to perform well and there doesn’t seem to be a commercial substitute for peat. In our own gardens and allotments home-made compost is the answer. Depending on what is to be grown mix it with the right organic slow or quick release fertilizers, sand, grit or leaf mould and you will not need peat. Find a good source of well rotted farm-yard or horse manure, which shouldn’t be too difficult in our area, and use it. Mulch with it, compost it, dig it into a trench, get it onto your garden. It is a slow release fertiliser that contains all the essential nutrients demanded for healthy veg. growth and maintains and boosts the structure by breaking up heavy clay soils and binding lighter soils. How can your garden survive without good old-fashioned muck?
Commercial growing compounds are a fairly recent commodity which enables anyone with a small garden to grow their own produce but maybe we should give more thought to compost bins and wormeries.
Jobs for August and September
• Enjoy your summer harvest and stop going to the supermarket as often, spend more time being inventive with your produce, it is amazing how delicious a simple home grown meal tastes.
• If the strawberries have finished fruiting, give them a trim leaving any runners to pot on for new plants next year.
• Harvest onions if the weather is fine and dry.
• Cut off some of the lower leaves on tomato plants to allow the sun to ripen the fruit.
• Sow over-wintering cabbage such as Durham Early and Pixie (if not already done) ready to plant out in September.
• tart harvesting 2nd early potatoes. Earlies are harvested 10 to 13 weeks after planting, 2nd earlies 13 to 15 weeks and main crop 15 to 20 weeks. (This is a rough guide depending on weather conditions and blight!)
• Inspect all potatoes for blight and remove and burn or dispose of any tops that are affected. Do not compost them.
• Water and feed courgettes, squash, tomatoes, sweet corn and any very thirsty plants but hold back on watering the onions and garlic for a few weeks before harvesting.
• Let a single plant of rocket, parsley and lettuce bolt this year. There will be some interesting shapes and the birds will love you. You will also find new plants next spring for free. (This is not a tip for the tidy gardener).
RECIPES
Courgettes
This year I have grown three different types of courgette, the reliable old favourite ‘All Green Bush’, the dark green ‘Defender’ and a round variety called Tondo Chiare di Nizza. They are all cropping well and much as I love the first fresh juicy pickings I will soon be groaning under the glut that will inevitably happen. I am determined to try and find new ways to use them.
Courgette Cake for the Birthday Boys
My son Chris and his son Frank have birthdays on the 8th and 13th July respectively. This year they coincided with the ripening of my 1st courgettes and the deadline for my Northern Life column. How many more reasons did I need to inspire me to make this deliciously moist chocolatey cake? I have adapted a recipe by Jeanne Jenner which I found in an old Skipton Garden Club booklet.
Courgette and Chocolate Cake
150g plain good quality cooking chocolate (Green and Blacks Organic)
200g S.R. flour
Half tsp. salt
150g castor sugar
2 standard eggs
150 ml walnut oil (or sunflower/vegetable oil)
225g courgettes
25g chopped walnuts
Method:
1. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over simmering water and grate the courgettes.
2. Whisk the eggs and oil together.
3. Put flour, salt and sugar into a large bowl, mix in the eggs and oil and beat well.
4. Add the chocolate, courgettes and walnuts and stir well.
5. Pour into a 20cms (8 inch) round greased tin.
6. Bake at 180C. (160 Fan oven) Gas 4 for 50 to 60 mins until well risen, firm and springy.
7. Cool in tin for 10 mins. before turning onto a wire rack.
Currants
Time to start harvesting the shiny blackcurrants and the jewel-like redcurrants which are hanging heavy with juice from my bushes. Currants are a prime ingredient of summer puddings and will always have a place for at least one bush in my garden. I have fought shy of making jellies and jams with them thinking it is too much like hard work, but this recipe for redcurrant jelly is so simple and foolproof.
Redcurrant and Cinnamon Jelly
900g (2lb) red currants, washed
1 cinnamon stick
Sugar with Pectin (jam sugar)
30ml (2 tbsp) lemon juice
1. Put the redcurrants in a heavy pan with 300ml (half pint) water and the cinnamon.
2. Bring slowly to the boil, mashing the fruit occasionally, then simmer gently for 30 mins.
3. Spoon the fruit pulp into a jelly bag attached the legs of an upturned stool and leave to strain into a large bowl for at least 12 hours.
4. Discard the pulp from the jelly. Measure the juice and return to the pan with 450g (1lb) sugar for each 600ml (1 pint) juice. Add the lemon juice.
5. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, then boil rapidly for 1 minute or until setting point is reached. (i.e. put a little jelly on a cold plate, cool, then push a finger gently through the jelly. If the surface wrinkles, setting point has been reached.)
6. Pot into warm sterile jars and cover whilst still hot with a waxed disc (available from most cook shops)
7. Allow to cool before sealing with the screw top and labelling.
Small jars of this jelly would make very acceptable gifts if covered with pretty fabric or paper, secured with a rubber band and labelled neatly.